A bathroom vanity is the hardest-working piece of furniture in the room. It holds the basin, stores everything you use daily, and sets the visual tone of the space. Because it combines cabinetry, a countertop, a basin and often a mirror, choosing one is a longer decision than most people expect. This guide walks through the four decisions that matter most — size, mounting type, materials, and storage — so you can specify a vanity with confidence.
Vanity width is measured across the cabinet front and is usually quoted in inches. Standard widths run from about 24 inches for a powder room up to 72 inches for a double-sink master bath. The most common sizes are 28", 30", 32", 36", 40", 48", 60" and 72".
To work out what fits:
Measure the wall span available for the vanity, then leave at least 15 inches of clear space on each side of the unit if it sits next to a wall or a shower enclosure.
Check door and drawer swing. A vanity that opens into a doorway is a daily annoyance. Allow roughly 30 inches of clear floor area in front of the cabinet.
Confirm rough-in positions. Note where the drain and supply lines come out of the wall or floor — single-hole and three-hole configurations are not interchangeable without re-drilling a top.
Decide single or double basin. For two regular users, 60 inches is the practical minimum for two basins to remain usable; 72 inches gives each side comfortable working room.
Browse the full range by size on our bathroom cabinets collection.
A floating vanity is fixed to the wall with a concealed bracket, leaving the floor clear. The advantages are practical as well as visual: the floor reads larger, mopping becomes effortless, and the cabinet can be set at a comfortable height rather than following a fixed plinth. A wall-hung cabinet also keeps stored items further from a wet floor. It does require a solid wall — blocking or a stud-mounted rail — so it is worth checking the wall build before ordering. See our wall cabinets.
A floor-standing vanity carries its own weight through a plinth or legs, which makes it the simpler choice for lightweight partition walls and for larger furniture-style pieces where storage volume is the priority. It also suits a classical or transitional room where a heavier base reads as intentional. See our floor cabinets.
Plywood core with wood veneer — dimensionally stable in humid bathrooms, with the grain of natural timber. Veneer is colour-washed to control tone across a run of cabinets.
Solid oak and ash wood — open-grained hardwoods used for slatted and fluted door designs. They take a durable lacquer well and age with character.
Solid colour lacquer — a uniform finish that hides joints, popular in white, cream and matte black schemes.
Sintered stone — a pressed mineral surface that is non-porous, resistant to staining and heat, and does not need sealing. It is the default choice for busy family bathrooms.
Natural marble — unmatched depth of vein, but softer and porous. It needs sealing and careful cleaning; best in a powder room or a low-traffic ensuite.
Travertine and stone-look surfaces — warm, textured alternatives that give a limewash or Mediterranean feel without the maintenance of true stone.
Integrated ceramic — basin and top are one piece, so there is no joint to collect residue. Easiest to clean.
Undermount ceramic — a smooth counter edge you can wipe straight into the bowl.
Semi-recessed — sits partly inside the cabinet, saving depth in tight rooms.
Counter-top (vessel) basin — sits above the counter as a design feature, and pairs with a taller faucet.
An illuminated mirror with anti-fog heating removes the post-shower wipe-down and puts even, shadow-free light on the face — valuable if the bathroom is also the grooming station. Mirror cabinets add shallow storage for daily items. Frameless, wood-framed, stainless-steel framed and shaped designs are all available to suit the cabinet style.
Count what has to disappear: towels, hairdryer, bottles, cleaning supplies. Drawers are the most efficient because they use the full depth and let you see everything at a glance; doors suit bulky items and bins. Look for soft-closing runners and hinges — in a damp room, hardware quality determines how the vanity feels in year five, not year one. Where a run is long, a matching side cabinet or mirror cabinet usually gives more usable storage per inch than a wider basin unit.
36 inches is the most common single-basin size, followed by 30 inches for smaller bathrooms. For two users sharing, 60 inches is the usual starting point.
Yes, when they are fixed into solid blocking or a stud-mounted rail. The load is carried by the wall, not by the cabinet panel, so the fixing detail matters far more than the cabinet size.
Not always. A vanity that sits under a full-height tiled or stone wall can stand alone. If the wall behind is only painted, a short upstand or splashback protects it from splashes and hair products.
It is a mineral surface formed under high pressure and heat. The result is a dense, non-porous slab that resists stains, scratches and heat, and needs no sealing — which is why it suits family bathrooms and rental properties.
Yes, and it is worth planning together. Matte black, brushed gold, brushed nickel, gunmetal and chrome are all available across both vanities and faucets, so the room can read as one scheme rather than a collection of parts.
Work through the four decisions in order: size, mounting, materials, storage. Once the footprint and mounting type are fixed, the finish and mirror options are a short list rather than an overwhelming one. If you would like help matching a vanity to a faucet or shower set, our team can put together a specification for your room.
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